Since early times a small group of Campbells lived in the Glen Isla area and
they had been given certain forest and land rights by the Abbot of Coupar,
Donald Campbell (O.S. Map sheet 43, ref.192646). The land owner, Lord Ogilvy
of Airlie, who owned all the surrounding ground, picked a fight to get rid of
the Campbells and four were killed in the fight. The remaining Campbells sent
a message to the Duke of Argyll, the head of the Clan Campbell, who in
response sent one of his chieftains with 500 men to sort out Lord Ogilvy.
The Highland raiders of these times could cover ground very quickly, 50 to 60
miles a day on foot, and they appeared virtually without warning at the gates
of Airlie Castle. Lord Ogilvy was away from home, fighting down in England.
The Campbell chieftain, being a gentleman, did not take the castle in
deference to Lady Ogilvy and returned to Argyll with very little achieved.
The Duke of Argyll was most upset and ordered his son, Archibald the Grim, to
take 5,000 men, kill Ogilvy, destroy his castle and lay waste to the whole of
his lands. The first warning Ogilvy had of their approach was when the army
was only four miles from Airlie and closing very fast. He and most of his
men abandoned the castle and fled, hoping that no harm would fall if he was
not present. This was not the case. The Campbells stormed the castle, killed
every male they could find and put all women and children out of the castle. Then they spent a week totally demolishing it stone by stone and virtually obliterating any sign of its existence. The following two weeks they laid waste to every part of Ogilvy lands, killing every man and boy they could find. What they could not carry, they destroyed, took all livestock and anything of value, and totally ravished the whole area. On their way back they also destroyed Forter Castle, which had been built 80 years before. Forter Castle stood in ruins for 350 years until and English gentleman, Mr. Pooley, bought it and totally restored it.
The moral of the story was that it was unwise to upset the Campbells.
The Cockstane at Finegand...
There is a large rock surrounded by trees at Finegand which is called the
"Cockstane" (O.S. Sheet 43, Ref. 141643). Stories handed down in the Glen
through the Centuries have it that when the Clan MacThomas or what was then
known as the MacOmish came to the Glen, they built their first settlement at
Finegand. One night a cock was heard crowing from the top of the rock. Its
cries were so loud that the clan was awakened. It being unheard of for a cock
to call at night, it was taken that something was seriously amiss and the
call to arms was raised, the men taking up defensive positions. As soon as
this was done the cock fell silent.
After a while the men were beginning to get restive and think it was all for
nothing when strange sounds were heard which were made by armed men
approaching and bumping into objects in the dark. It was a raid. The
attackers were taken completely by surprise when instead of a helpless
sleeping village, they found they were attacking a company of well armed and
prepared people. The raiders were cut to pieces and few escaped.
The clan realised they owed their survival to the cock crowing from the rock
and from that moment on the rock became the central point for the clan. At
times of danger when the Glen was being raided or attacked the men would rush
to the rock with their weapons and the chief or cheiftans would organise them
into cohesive fighting units and co-ordinate defence and counter attacks as
required. The clan chief made counsel standing on the rock, judgements,
tribunals and all serious clan business were conducted by the chief and
lesser chieftans with the whole clan gathered around. Although long dispersed
from Glenshee, members of the Clan MacThomas Society return each year on the
third weekend of August to swear allegiance to their clan chief as he stands
on the rock.
Finegand - The Tax Collectors...
Finegand takes its name from an incident that happened in the 16th century
(O.S. Map Sheet 43, Ref. 14653). Tax collecting in these times was done in a
rather forceful manner by bands of heavily armed men called Messengers at
Arms or Sherriff's Officers. A list of names and addresses with amounts due
would be given to the Chief Sheriff's Officer who would then assemble a group
and make a sortie for four or five weeks, visiting each address in turn and
demanding the amount to be paid on the spot. If cash was not available or
forthcoming, then any livestock, valuables or possessions of any kind
whatsoever were seized, taken to the nearest market and sold until the amount
was raised. Anything left was supposed to be given back to the owner, but
this seldom happened.
These tax collectors were obviously not popular people and tax collecting was
often done by force at the point of a sword. A group of collectors appeared
at a house at Forter, which is about six miles south of Glenshee. The man of
the house had died but this made no difference, the wife was liable. She had
little ready money, therefore all her livestock, valuables and furnishings
were seized by the Sheriff's Officers. The widow was naturally very upset and
sent a servant with a message to the headquarters of the Clan MacOmish,
known nowadays as Clan MacThomas. The Chief, a man called MacCombie Mhor,
gathered some of his men and headed down the Glen to see what fuss was on his
land.
He met the tax collectors crossing the ford of Finegand which is
approximately four miles south of the Spittal. An argument developed which
broke into a fight. A tax collector was killed, some were injured and the
rest surrendered. One of them, probably "in his cups" from some of the booty
from the widow's house shouted "MacCombie Mhor, we are the King's men and
will bear witness against you". This was a huge mistake. The answer came
"there will not be witnesses". MacCombie instructed to kill every one of the
tax collectors which the clansmen proceeded to do with relish. He then
ordered them to be decapitated and the heads thrown in the burn. It is said
that he then roared down the Glen "Now swim back to your masters in Edinburgh
and tell them what happens to thieves they send to Glenshee".
For this crime, the MacOmish were eventually pursued and driven out of the
Glen, but this took another eighty years to accomplish. Because of the
persecution most of the surviving clansmen changed their names to MacThomas,
Thomson, Thoms, Thomas and obviously thrived elsewhere in the world, as the
name is not uncommon. It was noticed that tax collectors avoided Glenshee for
some very considerable time thereafter and it is said even to this day some
Revenue men and tax collectors get a funny feeling at the back of their necks
when they pass Finegand.
A WARRIER, A KING AND TWO QUEENS...
In the late 6th Century, legend has it there lived in Scotland, a great
warrior named Diarmid, reputedly a man of outstanding martial prowess and a
great favourite with the ladies, so much so that Queen Grainne, the wife of
the incumbent King Fingal, was having an affair with him. The king got to
know of the affair, but according to Celtic custom he could not appoint a
deputy to act for him or seek help from any relative - he had to deal with
Diarmid man to man. The king knew if he challenged Diarmid he would lose,
such was Diarmid's fearsome reputation.
However, an opportunity came for Fingal. The people of Glenshee petitioned
the king to come and rid them of what they claimed was a demon boar. This
beast had for some considerable time caused great damage to property and
livestock in the area and several attempts to hunt it down had all failed
with a number of hunters losing their lives. It was considered the king's job
to deal with matters of this kind, therefore a hunting party was raised and
Fingal personally invited Diarmid to the hunt. When they arrived in Glenshee,
camp was made in the area of the Spittal of Glenshee. The king then
challenged Diarmid to go and hunt the boar himself. Diarmid accepted the
challenge and duly managed to track the boar down. There ensued a vigorous
battle in which according to the epic handed down through the centuries, his
mighty hunting spear was smashed by the beast and he had to fight it with a
sword, axe and dirk before it succombed. In the desparate fight Diarmid was
wounded and pierced by the spines along the boar's back. Wounds from boar
spines become infected very quickly and result in death within one day. This
did not concern Diarmid too much as there was a known antidote for the poison
which was carried by hunting parties. He cut off the boar's head, carried it
back to camp, placed it in front of the king and asked for the medicine. The
king had prepared for this by throwing the supply of medicine into the burn.
The infection from the wounds spread through Diarmid's body and he died.
When Queen Grainne heard of his death, she committed suicide.
Diarmid was so highly regarded that an area at the foot of the SE ridge of
Bad an Loin is to this day marked on all maps as "The Tomb", was levelled,
Diarmid buried, a large mound built over his grave and four standing stones
in the shape of a spearhead, which, if you stand to the eastern side, line up
and point to where he was reputed to have killed the boar (O.S. Map sheet 43,
Ref. 118701).
Soon after this double tragedy, another queen who was staying in a castle
between Alyth and Glen Isla, some 15 miles to the south east was put to death.
The method of her death was quite horrendous - she was thrown into a pit of
starving dogs, which was apparently a Pictish punishment for an adulterous
woman. The queen's name was Guinevere, ex King Arthur. Legend has it that her
remains were taken to Meigle where there existed an early Culdee monastery,
and buried there. Researchers have recently claimed to have found a Pictish
stone at Meigle which they claim is possibly that of Queen Guinevere. The
legends and stories of King Arthur and the Round Table do not give any
satisfactory answer as to where Guinevere and Sir Lancelot went after they
were found out. A Queen and a great warrior, even in those times, could not
just disappear without trace but one could imagine that wherever Guinevere
was, her lover and protector would not be far away. So who was Diarmid? Could
he and Sir Lancelot have been the same person? Historians would probably not
agree but then what evidence have they got otherwise.
The Clan Campbell claim direct descent from the man known as Diarmid - or Sir
Lancelot? They grew to be the most potent and powerful clan in Scotland.
Their motif is the boar's head.
The Dalmunzie Railway...
The railway used to run from Dalmunzie House (O.S. Map Sheet 43, Ref. 091713)
which is now a country house hotel, to the Glen Lochsie Shooting Lodge
(Ref. 064726), gaining over 400 feet in height over an approximate distance
of 2.5 miles. This track was built by Sir Archibald Birkmyre in the early
1920's for the sole purpose of transporting grouse shooting parties in August.
This was in the days when the Empire was still at its height with people
making vast fortunes and competing with one another for ways of spending it
on ostentatious projects, and this must have been one of the more outrageous
ones.
The railway was narrow guage with a light engine drawing a string of
miniature carriages complete with miniature freight wagons for all the food,
drink, guns, ammunition and all the other paraphenalia required for a grouse
shooting party of that era. The engine was powered by two petrol engines
brought back from the First World War trenches. The Head Keeper leading a
garron (Highland pony) and holding a red flag, walked in front of the engine,
so the whole affair was done at a very leisurely pace of some two miles per
hour. Altitude was achieved with a series of forward and reversing manoeuvres
through sets of points up the hillside in a zigzag fashion. When the railway
reached the lodge the passengers would alight, the more sprightly ones
proceeding on foot and the older ones being transported on garrons up to the
shooting butts for the day's sport to commence. The rail track was in full
working order until the 1970's when new Government legislation was introduced
bringing all private railways under the auspices and control of British
Railways. The landowner at that time was informed by British Rail that he
would have to upgrade and improvethe railway to meet the new regulations.
This was going to cost at that time some £60,000. The landowner did not see
the point of spending this kind of money on such a toy and decided to uplift
the rails which were subsequently sold as scrap. Fortunately the engine and
carriages were retained and are in storage at Dalmunzie House at present.
The route of the old rail track is still very apparent and can be walked the
entire distance and there has been some talk of reinstating, if not all, then
perhaps part of it as a tourist attraction.
The Catearans...
Catearan is the Gaelic word for a fighting man or warrior. Between the 13th
and 17th Centuries, the Glenshee area was subject to many raids from the
north and northwest clans. The purpose of these raids was to steal cattle
which were the currency of the Highlands. Having adequate cattle to survive
a harsh winter was the difference between survival and death to many of these
people. It was in the Angus glens that the Aberdeen Angus bull was developed,
but for centuries prior the Glenshee and Angus areas were considered to be
the prime area in Scotland for cattle.
A raiding party could range from 50 to 500 men and usually came from Lochiel,
Lochaber and Badenoch areas. These bands rarely consisted of the men from
only one clan but were usually made up of a confederation of clansmen with an
elected chieftain to lead the raid. These bands could travel very swiftly
over the hills and mountains of Scotland covering up to 50 miles per day
even over rough terrain and would strike without warning, nearly always at
night. The clanspeople of those times did not live in one large village but
were scattered in smallholdings and crofts all over the glen, so the method
was to simultaneously strike as many households as possible and kill the men,
thus reducing the possibility of retaliation and pursuit. Children were never
harmed. The women were often assaulted but not seriously, in fact the women's
job was to try and distract the attackers using every means at their disposal.
This helped in allowing the men to grab their weapons and run to the
pre-arranged assembly points in the glen where defence and counter attack
could be organised.
One of the last raids recorded in the Glenshee was also the largest ever
(O.S. Map sheet 43, Ref. 145770). A raiding party 500 strong attacked
Glenshee, Glen Beag, Glen Lochsie, Glen Taitneach, Glen Isla and Strathardle
simultaneously. They rounded up more than 2,700 head of cattle. This was no
mean feat as these cattle were spread out over what amounted to 100 square
miles of hill and glens. The assembly point in the morning was the Inn at the
Spittal of Glensgee. This did not amuse the innkeeper as these people did not
pay for what they required and 2,700 head of cattle assembled into an area
tend to leave a lot of mess which he obviously had to tidy up afterwards.
The stolen herd was moved north up through Glen Beag to the Cairnwell Pass.
This is when the raiders were at their most vulnerable to counter-attack as
the speed of the herd is only some two miles per hour and the raiders would
have to spread out to form a periphery around three sides of it, thus leaving
only half the party to fight a rear-guard action.
The locals only managed to launch an effective counter-attack when the
raiders had nearly reached the top of the Pass. This was at a place which is
known today as the Devil's Elbow. The fighting that followed could only be
described as total savagery. There could be no surrender, no wounded - it was
to be to the finish. At the beginning of the fight the locals could raise no
more than 150 men and were obviously outnumbered and suffered badly. The
fight had not long started when the local miller was told all of his seven
sons had already been killed, to which he answered "Tomorrow is for mourning,
today is for dying". He was also killed later in the day.
Then men from other glens started to arrive piecemeal and pitched into battle.
Glen by glen they came from Glen Lochsie, Glen Isla, Strathardle, Glen
Teatneach and finally the Braemar men also came over the hill and joined the
fight. This was no organised battle but a chaotic scramble among cattle,
heather and rocks, small groups of men, some shooting arrows at point blank
range into others, spears, axes, swords, dirks, clubs, stones and even bare
hands, anything was used. The real turning point of the battle was when the
Glen Taitneach men arrived, led by a man named Cam Ruadh (the one-eyed
red-haired man). He was an archer of great renown and had brought with him
even his youngest sons to carry extra arrows which he used with deadly effect,
it was said he personally dispatched nearly two score of the enemy. The
raiders had found themselves virtually surrounded with half their number dead.
Their leader was killed, shot with several arrows, hacked and stabbed. The
story has it he was a huge man named MacDairmid and when the plaid was
stripped from his body it was 12 paces long.
The surviving raiders could now only try to escape before they were totally
annihilated. To do so they started cutting the throats of the cattle knowing
that the local men would stop fighting to try and save the animals as they
were more valuable than people. The surviving raiders managed to escape over
the hills, never to return again. The local clansfolk recovered most of their
cattle but paid a dear price with nearly 400 dead. Of the three small
villages which were all within one mile of the Spittal of Glenshee, it was
said there were twenty widows in each and each of these households probably
lost two or three men. The Catearan raiders came to an end with the advent of
firearms becoming more widely available which caused unacceptable losses to
raiders. Thus passed an era in Highland history. Cattle rustling still took
place to a much lesser degree and still does right up to this day.
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